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About
Trisul |
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Trisul is a group of three Himalayan mountain peaks of western
Kumaon, with the highest (Trisul I) reaching 7120m. The three
peaks resemble a trident - in Hindi/Sanskrit, Trishula,
trident, is the weapon of Shiva. The Trishul group forms the
southeast corner of the ring of peaks enclosing the Nanda Devi
Sanctuary, about 15 kilometres west-southwest of Nanda Devi
itself. The main peak, Trisul I was the first peak over 7,000
m (22,970 ft) to have ever been climbed in 1907. |
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Description of the massif and neighboring peaks |
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The three peaks are named Trisul I, Trisul II, and Trisul III.
The massif is a north-south ridge with Trisul I at the north
end and Trisul III at the south. The massif runs roughly
North-South, and hence appears condensed when viewed from the
south (Ranikhet, Kausani), and more stretched out from the
Southeast (Chamoli, Bedini Bugyal).
Nanda Ghunti lies a few kilometers to the northwest, while
Mrigthuni is just to the southeast.
Trisul I- Trisul I has height of
7,120 metres (23,359 ft). Its coordinates are
30°18′46″N79°46′38″E. Its first
ascent was done in 1907.
Trisul
II- Trisul II has height of
6,690 metres (21,949). Its coordinates are
30°17′24″N79°46′12″E. Its first
ascent was done in
1960.
Trisul
III- Trisul III has height of
6,007 metres (19,708). Its coordinates are
30°15′00″N79°46′12″E. Its first
ascent was done in
1960.
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Climbing
History |
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Trisul I
T. G. Longstaff made the first climbing survey of Trisul, in
September 1905, focussing on the western and southern sides.
He returned in 1907 with two other Britons, three Alpine
guides, and a number of Gurkhas. They climbed through the
Rishiganga valley, to the north of the peak, onto the Trisul
Glacier, which lies on the east side. From there they climbed
the northeast flank to the north ridge, reaching the summit on
June 12. At the time Trisul was probably the highest mountain
to have been climbed.
The climb was noted also for the first use of supplementary
oxygen in a major climb Routes on the west face and south
ridge of Trisul I have also been climbed. The west face was
first climbed in 1976; this was the first ascent of the main
summit not using the first-ascent route.
Trisul II and III
Trisul II and Trisul III were first climbed in 1960 by the
Yugoslav team JAHO I (sl). They climbed from the Bidalgwar
glacier, achieving the summit of Trisul II via the southern
ridge and Trisul III via the north ridge.
Another Yugoslav expedition made the first traverse of the
three peaks in 1987, and two members paraglided from the
summit. |
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Details |
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Aleš Kunaver was a member of the first Yugoslav team who
climbed Trisul in 1960. In 1987, his daughter Vlasta Kunaver
climbed Trisul I and was one of the paragliders. |
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How To Reach There |
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The Trisul massif can be accessed via the following route:
Almora - Kausani - Garur- Gwaldam - Debal - Bagargad - Wan -
Bedini Bugyal - Kelva Vinayak - Roopkund - Trisul. |
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