|
|
|
|
Old City of Srinagar, Kashmir |
|
With
its almost medieval charm, the old city of Srinagar has
various sights to enchant the most jaded traveller. Its
roads and bustling bazaars are a photographer's delight.
Traditionally dressed men and women on their way to the
city's many mosques and shrines, buildings with their
rich warm colour - these are some of the old city's
moods which linger in the corners of a traveller's mind,
long after one leaves Kashmir. Lending the area its
vitality is the presence of the river Jhelum that flows
through it. Srinagar has for long been Kashmir's most
important commercial town, and when one considers
|
 |
|
|
that boasts
have always been a primary means of conveyance in Kashmir, it
is not difficult to see why. In time, the city has formed
around the banks of the river. Today, the presence of the
river Jhelum has become an integral part of the old city,
despite the fact that boats are no longer so extensively used
as a means of conveyance. Nine bridges span the River Jhelum,
and many tiny ones intersect the network of waterways that
flow through the old city. These nine bridges are Zero Bridge,
Amira Kadal, Budshah Kadal, Habba Kadal, Fateh Kadal, Zaina
Kadal, Aali Kadal, Nawa Kadal and Safa Kadal, ‘Kadal’ being
the Kashmiri word for bridge. Of these Budshah Bridge and Zero
Bridge are the newest; the former having been constructed by
the British in this century. Presently, the oldest bridge is
Fateh Kadal, too dilapidated for actual use. However, many of
the old bridges have been replaced with new concrete bridges
and a few new ones have also been added in view of the
increasing traffic. The most prominent among these is the
Abdullah Bridge, situated near the Tourist Reception Centre.
The view from any of the old city's bridges
is wholly and unmistakably Kashmiri. Old brick buildings line
the banks. The distinctive pagoda-like roof of a mosque or a
shrine enlivens the horizon, and in the muddy water of the
River Jhelum, a straggling row of doongas flanks the edges.
These boats, with their shingled roofs, are the forerunners of
Srinagar’s houseboat. A particular community lives in them.
Formerly this community was associated with ferrying people,
livestock and food grains along the river. The past still
lingers in their lifestyles even if their occupation has
changed. Occasionally one may catch sight of a doonga making
its stately progress down the river as the owner shifts
residence. Doongas are sparsely furnished - virtually no
furniture is seen except for the kitchen, which gleams with
copper utensils of every description that line the shelves
from floor to ceiling. Roads in the old city tend to be
narrow, winding and chaotic. Some are too narrow to admit
vehicular traffic. Each road connects to lanes and they in
turn to bye-lanes, all appearing to the uninitiated and
terribly confusing. There are arterial roads, however, and
major market squares where it is difficult to get lost. In a
lane off Nowhatta Chowk, there are several copper shops,
overflowing with an amazing profusion of copperware. As a
matter of fact, such shops are situated all over the old city
because every Kashmiri uses copper for tableware - even huqqa
bases are made from copper. Some articles are un-patterned,
others worked in bas-relief, engraving or pierced open-work.
Exotic as they are, they make attractive ornaments about the
house, or can be used as serving dishes. |
| |
|
One of
the many moods of the old city is the constant reminder
about its tradition of handicrafts. Well-appointed shops
in the fashionable areas of Srinagar seem rather remote
from the humble families of craftsmen who create
tapestries and shawls. From top floor windows one
catches sight of gaily embroidered fabric hanging out to
dry. Occasionally a wizened old man cycles down the
road, bearing a carpet, its lustrous colours glowing in
the sunlight. Kashmiri colours are not the fiery colours
of the desert that sear the eyelids. They are
|
 |
|
|
subdued,
almost purposely it would seem, to counterpoint nature's
magnificence. Earthy tones of brick, the rich hue of copper,
even the vermilion of Kashmiri chillies drying on window sills
in autumn appear monochromatic when set off against the
splendour of the Valley’s backdrop. The only craft where
Kashmiris revel in colour is in their carpets. Here too, the
colours are never loud, never disharmonious, but always subtle
and soft. At Habba Kadal, shop sells skeins of wool, mainly to
carpet weavers.
The old city also boasts of Kashmir’s many
ancient shrines and mosques among which the shrine of Shah-i-Hamdan,
situated between Habba Kadal and Fateh Kadal, is probably the
most important. Shah-i-Hamdan, who came from Persia in the
13th century, was responsible for the spread of Islam in
Kashmir. Khanqah-i-Mualla, on the banks of the Jhelum, was the
very spot where Shah-i-Hamdan used to offer prayers. Upon his
death, a shrine, ornately decorated with papier-mache on the
walls and ceiling, was built in his memory. Makhdoom Sahib,
Patthar Masjid, Jama Masjid and Pir Dastagir are the major
mosques and shrines in the old city. Tourists are welcome to
visit the mosques and shrines in the old city. There are a few
points to be kept in mind in accordance with the sanctity of
these places. Women are not allowed into the inner sanctum of
shrines, but there is no such restriction in the case of
mosques. Shoes must be taken off at the entrance. Jamia Masjid
charges a fee for photography. Visitors are expected to
conform to certain regulations in the matter of dress - no
skimpy tops, shorts or short skirts are allowed. |
|
