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Rabdantse Ruins
About Rabdantse Ruins

Rabdentse was the second capital of the former kingdom of Sikkim from 1670 to 1814. The capital city was destroyed by the invading Nepalese Gurkha army and only the ruins of the palace and the chortens are seen here now. However, the ruins of this city are seen close to Pelling and in West Sikkim district in the Northeastern Indian state of present day Sikkim; Pemayangtse Monastery is one of the oldest monasteries in Sikkim which is close to the ruins. It was first founded in 1670 by Chadok Namgyal son of Phuntsog Namgyal by shifting from the first capital of Yuksom that was set apart in 1642.

From the vantage point of this former capital, excellent views of the Khanchendzonga ranges can be seen. This monument has been declared as of national significance by the Archaeological Survey of India.

Rabdentse ruins have been preserved by the Indian Archeological Society. Today, the ruins of this ex-capital of Sikkim act as a tourist attraction reminding the royal aspect of this place. Rabdentse was recognized to be the second capital of Sikkim. With the passing time, Rabdentse was isolated and ravages of time turned the royal capital into ruins. Situated in West Sikkim district, Rabdentse is considered as an archeological site that truly peeps into the history of Sikkim.

The Rabdentse ruins are part of Buddhist religious pilgrimage circuit starting with the first monastery at Yuksom known as the Dubdi Monastery, followed by Norbugang Chorten, the Pemayangtse Monastery, Tashiding Monastery, the Sanga Choeling Monastery, and the Khecheopalri Lake.

Rabdentse Ruins are not observable from the main road. The place is easily reachable from Pemayangtse Monastery or you can also trek through a two kilometer path amidst the forest that starts from Pelling and goes till Geyzing. It lies a little below Pemayangtse Monastery and the same path goes to the monastery too. One can easily trace Steppe eagle, Rufous-capped Babbler, Chestnut-crowned Warbler, Black-eared Shrike Babbler and Dark-breasted Rosefinch while walking through the forest.

On reaching the site, the ruins of the Palace can be seen that used to be the abode of Sikkim monarchs. From the top of the monument, you can witness the scenic sight that scans across the subterranean valley to the mysterious heights of Khangchendzonga. This vista is unbelievable and something that would become a memorable part of your memories. Tourists come to visit these palace ruins to get the glimpse of Sikkim's history, while enjoying the striking landscape as well.

 
Structures of Rabdantse Ruins

The ruins seen now at the Rabdentse consist mainly of “chunky wall stubs” whose heritage value is emphasized by its location on a ridge, near upper Pelling (3 kilometres (1.9 mi) away) from where superior views of the Kanchendzong hill ranges and surroundings on one side and the mountains and valleys on the other side are visible. The approach to this location is from a decorative yellow gate near the Pelling–Geyshing road, from where it is a walking distance of about 15 minutes through a lake and forested hills.

Along the trek path from the gate, an avenue of chestnut trees with sodden moss leads to a stone throne comprising three standing stones called as “Namphogang”, which was the stage of the judges from where judgments were pronounced during the active days of the king's reign from Rabdentse. Further ahead, the 'Taphap Chorten' is seen in semi ruined condition. This was the entry point to the Palace and people seeking access to the palace had to dismount from their horses and remove their hat as a mark of respect to the King here. The palace ruins are at the centre of the fourth courtyard.

The ruins of the palace are seen now in two wings – the southern wing and the northern wing. The northern wing was the residence of the royal family. This wing has an open quadrangle where the “Dab Lhagang”, now in ruins, is also seen; the Royal family used to offer prayers with incense to their deities here. A white marble slab of size 7 feet (2.1 m)x 5 feet (1.5 m) (reported to have been shifted from the river, carried by one person only) is also seen at this place, which was once the place of the monastery known as “Risum Gompa".

Next to the ruins of the palace are three chortens, the religious place where members of the royal family offered incense to the deities. The chortens are in a fair state of preservation. On the southern wing, common people were given an audience by the king, which is evident from the stone throne seen here.

The Archaeological Survey of India has declared Rabdentse as a heritage monument and has undertaken the needed preservation and restoration measures.

 
History of Rabdantse Ruins

Rabdentse is seen only in ruins now and its troubled history, which caused this situation is narrated. Phuntsog Namgyal, the first Chogyal or King of Sikkim, who was consecrated as king of Sikkim at Yuksom, was succeeded by his son, Tensung Namgyal, in 1670. The supremacy of the Chogyal was quiet and saw the capital being shifted from Yuksom to Rabdentse. The Namgyal had three wives – a Tibetan, a Bhutanese and a Limbu girl. The Limbu girl, daughter of the Limbu chief Yo Yo-Hang had inducted seven girls from her family who all got married into noble families of Sikkim. Many of them became councillors to the King and given the title Kazis, which gave them huge powers and privileges.

The king's second wife's son Chador Namgyal, took over the reign's of power in Sikkim, after his father’s death, in 1700. He was a minor at that time. This outraged his elder half-sister Pendiongmu (daughter of first wife of Tensung Namgyal), of Bhutanese descent opposed the succession and with help from Bhutan expelled Chador. Chador fled to Tibet (Yungthing Yeshe, a loyal Minister escorted the minor king to Lhasa) where he remained in exile for ten years before returning and retrieving his lost territory with the help of the Tibetans.

While in Lhasa, Chador Namgyal became very proficient in Buddhism and Tibetan literature, and also became the state astrologer to the Sixth Dalai Lama. During his exile, the Sixth Dalai Lama delighted with the sophistication of Chador Namgyal had granted on him exclusive rights to an estate in Tibet. During this period, the son of Yugthing Yeshe (who had saved Chador and taken him to Tibet) was imprisoned by the Bhutanese in Rabdentse. Tibet intervened in the matter and also prevailed on King Deb of Bhutan to withdraw from Sikkim. Chador Namgyal then returned to Rebdantse and the small forces of Bhutan which remained were forced to withdraw. During this period, Sikkim lost some areas in its south-eastern region since Bhutan had colonized the area.

Pedi, the Chogyal’s half sister, had not given up on her hostility against her half brother Chador. With the help of a medicinal man from Tibet she got Chador Namgyal murdered in 1716 through a mysterious blood letting from a main channel while the king was on a holiday at the Ralang hot water spring. Immediately, the royal armed forces executed the Tibetan doctor and also put Pedi to death by strangling her with a silk scarf.

Gurmed Namgyal succeeded his father Chadok in 1717. Gurmed's reign saw many skirmishes between the Nepalese and Sikkimese. He got Rabdentse equipped to checkmate invasions by the Gurkhas (Nepalese) and Bhutanese. In addition, a local Magar chieftain Tashi Bidur had also rebelled, but was subdued. Gurmed died in 1733 at a young age of 26. Since he did not have any legitimate children, on his death bed he conveyed that a nun at Sanga Cheoling was carrying his child (this is said to be the story concocted by the Lamas to perpetuate the Namgyal Dynasty). Subsequently, the nun gave birth to a male child who was acknowledged as heir to Gurmed and was given the name Phuntsog, after the first temporal and the spiritual head of Sikkim.

Phunstog Namgyal II, the illegitimate child of Gurmed, succeeded his father to the throne in 1733. His reign was turbulent as he was faced with attacks by the Bhutanese and the Nepalese, apart from revolts within Sikkim from Magars and the Tsongs in 1752. Since Namgyal II was a weak king, the Nepalese had made 17 invasions against Sikkim. Bhutan had also attacked Sikkim and occupied areas east of Tista River; however, they later withdrew to present frontiers after negotiations held at Rhenock.

Tenzing Namgyal, the next king was also a weak ruler, and his sovereignty saw most of Sikkim being appropriated by Nepal. The Chogyal was forced to flee from Rabdentse to Lhasa where he died in 1780. Tshudpud Namgyal, his son returned to Sikkim in 1793 to retrieve the throne with the help of China. Finding Rabdentse too close to the Nepalese border, he shifted the capital to Tumlong. Subsequent to the repeated attacks by the Bhutanese and Nepalese over the many attacks, the capital city was reduced to ruins by the liberating army of Nepal.

 

 


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