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About
Makalu |
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Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world at an
elevation of 8,481 metres (27,825 ft). It is located in the
Mahalangur Himalayas 19 km southeast of Mount Everest, on the
border between Nepal and China. One of the eight-thousanders,
Makalu is an isolated peak whose shape is a four-sided
pyramid.
Makalu has two prominent subsidiary peaks. Kangchungtse, or
Makalu II (7,678 m) which lies about 3 km north-northwest of
the main summit. Rising about 5 km north-northeast of the main
summit across a broad plateau, and connected to Kangchungtse
by a narrow, 7,200 m saddle, is Chomo Lonzo (7,804 m).
This beautiful and impressive massive is situated about 14
miles east of Everest in the Khumbu region. Its size alone is
impressive, but its perfect pyramid structure with four sharp
ridges which makes this mountain all the more amazing. Makalu
is actually a double peak. The subsidary peak rising just
north of the main summit is connected by a saddle which is
called Chomolonzo (25,650 ft.) It is interesting to note that
the summit ridge is the isolation point indicating the border
between Nepal on the Southern side and Tibet to the North.
The name of the mountain was probably taken from the Sanskrit
word Maha-Kala, which means Big Black and is a by-name of
Shiva - one of the most important gods of Hinduism. Shiva is
sometimes an evil, cruel destroyer but at other times he tends
to be gentle and kind-hearted. The mountain has another name
in the local language - Kumba karna, which means the Giant.
Makalu has proved to be a challenging climb, as only five of
its first sixteen attempts were successful. There have been a
total of 206 successful ascents of Makalu and a total of 22
fatalities. Prior to its first ascent in 1955, it was admired
and studied by several Everest expeditions, but like a lot of
other giants in the Khumbu region, it was not attempted until
the summit of Everest was first ascended in 1954. |
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Climbing history |
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The
first attempt on Makalu was made by an American team which was
led by William Siri in the spring of 1954. The expedition was
composed of Sierra Club members including Allen Steck, and was
called the California Himalayan Expedition to Makalu. This was
the first American mountaineering expedition to the
Himalaya.They attempted the southeast ridge but were turned back
at 7,100 m by a constant barrage of storms. A New Zealand team
including Sir Edmund Hillarywas also active in the spring, but
did not get very high due to injury and illness. In the fall of
1954, a French investigation expedition made the first ascents
of the subsidiary summits Kangchungtse (October 22: Jean Franco,
Lionel Terray,Sardar Gyaltsen Norbu and Pa Norbu) and Chomo
Lonzo (October 30: Jean Couzy and Terray).
Makalu was first climbed on May 15, 1955 by Jean Couzy and
Lionel Terray of a French expedition led by Jean Franco. Franco,
G. Magnone and Sardar Gyaltsen Norbu summitted the next day,
followed by Bouvier, S. Coupe, Leroux and A. Vialatte on the
17th. This was an wonderful achievement at the time to have the
vast majority of expedition members summit, especially on such a
difficult peak. Prior to this time, summits were reached by 1-2
people at most with the rest of teams providing logistical
support before turning around and heading home. The French team
climbed Makalu by the north face and northeast ridge, via the
saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (the Makalu-La),
establishing the standard route.
Makalu was first climbed in winter on February 9, 2009 by
Italian Simone Moro and Kazakh Denis Urubko. It was the final
Nepali eight-thousander to be climbed in winter conditions. Moro
had previously made the first winter climb of Shishapangmain
winter 2005 with Pole Piotr Morawski.
Makalu is one of the harder eight-thousanders, and is considered
one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb. The
mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged
ridges that are completely open to the elements. The final
ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock/ice
climbing. |
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Makalu-Barun Valley |
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Makalu-Barun Valley is a himalayan glacier valley which is
situated at the base of Mt. Makalu in the Sankhuwasabha district
Nepal. This valley lies entirely inside the Makalu Barun
National Park.
Barun Valley provides striking contrasts, where high waterfalls
cascade into deep gorges, craggy rocks rise from lush green
forests, and colorful flowers bloom beneath white snow peaks.
This unique landscape shelters some of the pristine mountain
ecosystems on earth. Rare species of animals and plants flourish
in diverse climates and habitats, relatively undisturbed by
human kind. The first attempt of the Ski in the Himalayas
expedition traveled along this valley to reach to the Makalu
Base Camp. |
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