Margao (Madgaon), Goa
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thought to be the Portuguese corruption of the word Mathgram (from Math - a Hindu religious centre that used to exist there). However most of these were destroyed when the Portuguese absorbed the area into their Novas Conquistas during the 17th century. Because of its location, it serves as a service and transport hub to the areas of south Goa. It is a typically crowded Goan town, with chaotic, noisy traffic and quite a few architectural reminders of its Portuguese past. Surrounded by fertile farmland, the town of Margao was once a major religious centre, with dozens of wealthy temples and dharmshalas (dormitories). Margao has an old-worldly charm about it because of its Portuguese churches, and some magnificent specimens of old Portuguese houses complete with shady balcaos (porches) and oyster-shell windows in its Borda area.

Market in Margao
The town of Margao has an excellent market area stretching from the south edge of the main square to within a stone's throw of the old railway station. The Bazaar centres on a labyrinthine covered area that's a rich source of authentic souvenirs and a good place to browse for some bargain shopping. Margao's fish market was earlier located opposite the Municipal building and was a spectacular sight, with the fisherwomen from coastal areas of South Goa hawking their wares at the top of their voices, dressed in superbly coloured cotton sarees. The market has since been shifted to a complex located at the entrance of the city.

Tourist Attractions in Margao
The main tourist attraction in Margao are its markets - the covered market in the town's centre is one of the largest and most raucous in Goa and there is a fish and produce market in a vast complex near the Kadamba bus stand. The richly decorated Church of the Holy Spirit is worth a look and can be positively exciting when a big service is taking place.

architecture in Goa, boasting a pristine white façade and an interior dripping with gilt crystal and stucco. In the square is a monumental cross with a mango tree beside it.

House of Seven Gables
Just within walking distance of the Church, is the famous "House of Seven Gables" or "Sat Burzam Ghor". This magnificent mansion was commissioned in 1790 by Sebastino da Silva, emissary and private secretary of the Portuguese Viceroy. Although only three of the seven gables remain today, they are enough to give the visitor an idea of the size of the original edifice.

Colva Beach
The famous Colva beach is just 6 kms away from Margao, so most travellers coming to this area of Goa, tend to spend their time in the beach area, rather than enjoy the charms of Margao town itself.

Chandor
The lush village of Chandor, 15 km east of Margao, is one of the best respites from the beach in south Goa. Here, more than anywhere else in the state, the opulent lifestyle of Goa’s former Portuguese overlords is visible in a couple of decaying colonial mansions. Braganza House takes up one whole side of Chandor village square and dates back to the 17th century. It’s now divided into east and west wings, which stretch outward from a common front entrance. Ongoing restoration is slowly taking place and the ballrooms have Italian marble floors, Belgian glass chandeliers and carved rosewood furniture. The east wing is owned by the Pereira-Branganza family, and includes a small family chapel containing a carefully hidden fingernail of St. Francis Xavier. The old family photos, cheap souvenirs from friends abroad and tacky knick-knacks all add to an overall sense of melancholy. The west wing, belonging to the Menezes - Braganza family, had invested money in its restoration and is crammed with beautiful furniture and a whole museum's worth of Chinese porcelain. The two large rooms behind the entrance halls contain the largest private library in Goa. The elderly and formidable Mrs Menezes Braganza lives here alone and, once she's waved her maids aside. In general there appears to be a lack of concern about these old houses and without urgently needed funds for their restoration, you can only wonder what will become of them once the current custodians are gone. Both homes are open daily, but you may want to call ahead to ensure the owners will be around. There is no official entry fee, but the owners rely on contributions for maintenance and restoration.

South Goa, about 10 kms from Margao. Graceful swans charm the entrance to the reception. Elephants carrying flowered pillars with multi-hued and decorated beams deck the entryway. A spacious room of the Goan - Portuguese era completes with a palanquin, sepia-toned photographs, domed lamps and a designed marble floor. The traditional 'aarti' is performed as part of the greeted welcome by a sari-clad goan girl. Lord Parashuram, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu, shot the legendary arrow into the bosom of the Indian Ocean which resulted in the emotive paradise known as Goa. The visitor is treated to a sight of Parashuram at the entrance itself, all ready with the proverbial bow & arrow. One step out of the high- ceilinged entrance, sporting a "punkah" and one moves into a landscape spread over a gently rolling hill where laterite steps lead to "Demo" (the caretaker of the landlord's property). The Ancestral Goa project, the brainchild of Goan artist, Maendra J. Alvares who has used his family's ancestral property to keep Goa's culture alive and is a place worth visiting as any lay visitor can get a glimpse of Goa in its original grandeur and authentic form. This place also gives visitors a glance of a sight other than beaches, churches and temples which Goa is famous for and imparts a culture based education about the roots and heritage of Goa. Local feasts and festivals are celebrated with traditional style and fervour. A visit to Ancestral Goa on any of the feast days, allows to experience the Goan customs and lifestyles. The Eat-out offers a menu full of traditional Goan Specialties. Local vegetables, fish and sweets are treats to be indulged in. Some of the sights inside Ancestral Goa are Art Gallery and Handicraft Center, Mirabai Sculpture, Big Foot Dance Floor, Casa da Dona Maria, Anand Lotlikar's Ghor, Legend of Big Foot, The Farmer's House, Cross, Spring and Rakandar, the Fisherman's House, Escola da Musica, Bhati - the feni distillery, Tinto - the village market, Taverna - the country liquor shop, Goan Artisans, Bird Habitat, Spice Yard and Rubber Plantation.

Fernandes House
A kilometre past the church is the Fernandes House. It is smaller and less grand than the Braganza House, but older and with an interesting history. The original India house here dates back more than 500 years, while the Portuguese section was tacked on by the Fernandes family in 1821. The secret basement hideaway, full of gun holes and with an escape tunnel to the river, was used by the family to flee attackers.

Quepem
South of Chandor, in the village of Quepem, the immaculately renovated Palacio do Deao has recently opened to visitors. The beautiful gardens are as much an attraction as the 200 year old mansion.

Loutolim
Further relics of a bygone age can be found in the unhurried village of Loutolim, 10 kms. northeast of Margao. There are a number of impressive Portuguese mansions here but the only one officially open to the public is the 250-year-old Casa Arajao Alvarez though it lacks much of the atmosphere of the houses of Chandor. It’s also possible to visit the wonderful Figueiredo House. This house, and its sister owners, were memorably featured in William Dalrymple’s brilliant book, The Age of Kali, where, over tea and mango juice, Mrs Dona Georgina Figueiredo gets all uppity about the ‘botheration’ that was the Indian ‘invasion’ of Goa in 1961. It’s fascinating reading and a visit to this house makes for an interesting hour or so. It’s also possible to stay in one of the dark rooms. Anywhere else such a room would be overpriced but here the experience is worth every rupee. Traditional Goan meals are also available if you book in advance. Also in the village, and set up purely for tourists, Ancestral Goa is a re-creation of Goan village life under the Portuguese a century ago.

How to reach Margao

By Rail:
Margao's new Train station, Madgaon, the only stop in Goa for quite a few long distance express services on the Konkan Railway, is about 3 kms southeast of the town centre.

By Road:
Local private buses to Colva and surrounding villages make stops at various places inside the town. Long distance buses to Panaji, Vasco and destinations outside Goa, stop and leave from the main Kadamba Bus Stand, 3 km away on the outskirts of the town. Loutolim is best visited by motorcycle or taxi from Margao.